TORQPOINT TOOLS · AUSTRALIAN TOOL GUIDES
Putting up a shelf, driving batten screws or drilling into brick? Three similar-looking tools can give you very different results.
The right choice depends on whether you are making a hole, driving a fastener or breaking through masonry. This guide explains the differences, which tool suits common Australian DIY jobs, and how to choose bits that actually fit.
Impact driver vs drill vs hammer drill: the quick answer
A drill driver is the versatile choice for drilling holes and controlled screwdriving. An impact driver adds twisting impacts to drive demanding fasteners. A hammer drill adds blows along the drill bit for suitable masonry drilling.
For a first tool, choose a drill driver—or a hammer drill driver with selectable drilling, screwdriving and hammer modes if occasional masonry is on the list. Add an impact driver for frequent fastening. For repeated or demanding concrete drilling, consider an SDS rotary hammer.
What is the difference between an impact driver, drill and hammer drill?
On mobile, swipe the table sideways to see every column.
| Feature | Drill driver | Impact driver | Hammer drill driver |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Drilling and controlled fastening | Frequent or demanding fastening | Drilling, fastening and suitable masonry work |
| Action | Smooth rotation | Rotation with twisting impacts under load | Rotation plus forward percussion in hammer mode |
| Typical bit holder | Three-jaw chuck | 1/4-inch hex quick-release holder | Three-jaw chuck |
| Screwdriving control | Usually an adjustable clutch | Usually trigger/mode control; generally no drill-style clutch | Usually a clutch in screwdriving mode |
| Wood and metal holes | A strong general choice with the right bit | Possible with compatible impact-rated drill bits | Use ordinary drilling mode; hammer off |
| Brick and masonry | Only where the material and bit allow rotary drilling | Not a substitute for a masonry hammer mechanism | Suitable for many smaller holes, within capacity |
| Delicate fasteners | Often the easiest to control | Easy to overdrive without care | Use screwdriving mode and an appropriate clutch setting |
This comparison describes common cordless tools. Features vary by model. A basic corded hammer drill may not have the clutch or screwdriving controls of a cordless hammer drill driver.
How the three tools work—and when each earns its place
Drill driver: the most versatile starting point
A drill driver rotates its chuck and bit to bore a hole or turn a screw. Its chuck grips compatible round or hexagonal shanks within its stated capacity. With the right bit, the same tool can make a pilot hole in timber, drill a steel bracket and assemble a cabinet.
For screws, an adjustable clutch limits the drive before the tool keeps forcing the fastener. Start low on a matching offcut and increase only as needed. The numbered collar is a relative adjustment, not a calibrated torque setting in newton metres. Delicate fittings may still need a hand screwdriver for the final turn.
Use the manufacturer’s speed guidance for the bit size and material. Larger cutters often need a lower speed and more control. Stop before changing a mechanical gear selector, and use the side handle where the tool’s instructions require it.
Useful accessories: HSS twist drill bits for wood and steel and M35 cobalt HSS drill bits for appropriate drilling tasks.
Impact driver: repeated fastening with twisting impacts
An impact driver holds compatible hex-shank accessories in a quick-release collet. When resistance builds, its impact mechanism delivers repeated bursts of turning force. That makes it useful for driving substantial timber screws and doing repeated fastening jobs.
A common workflow is to keep a pilot drill bit in a drill and a matching screwdriver bit in the impact driver. You can alternate between making the hole and driving the screw without swapping bits every time. Pilot holes are still needed when the screw, timber or fixing instructions call for them.
It is not automatically better for every screw. Small screws, brittle materials and soft furniture panels are easy to damage. Use a suitable mode, feather the trigger and stop at the required depth. The loud impact sound does not tell you that a fixing has reached a specified torque.
Useful accessories: NKTOP 33-piece impact driver torsion bit set or PH2 impact torsion screwdriver bits for matching Phillips screws.
Hammer drill: percussion along the drill bit
In hammer mode, a conventional hammer drill combines rotation with rapid blows along the bit’s axis. With a suitable masonry bit, this helps break up material as the bit turns. It is useful for many smaller holes in suitable brick and masonry, within the tool’s capacity.
A cordless hammer drill driver normally lets you turn that action off. In ordinary drilling mode it can drill timber and metal; in screwdriving mode it can drive screws. Check the model’s available modes rather than assuming every tool labelled “hammer drill” offers the same controls.
An impact driver delivers twisting impacts around the fastener. A hammer drill delivers axial percussion along the bit. A tool being noisy or powerful does not make those mechanisms interchangeable. See the tool-type references.
Which tool should you use for common Australian DIY jobs?
| Job | Practical starting choice | Bit or setting that matters |
|---|---|---|
| Assembling flat-pack furniture | Drill driver, with hand finishing if needed | Correct tip; low clutch setting; hammer off |
| Making pilot holes in timber | Drill driver | Suitable timber or twist drill bit; normal rotation |
| Driving long timber or batten screws | Impact driver where the fixing permits | Matching impact-rated bit; pilot hole if specified |
| Drilling a steel bracket | Drill driver | Suitable HSS or cobalt bit; hammer off |
| Small fixing holes in suitable solid brick | Hammer drill | Compatible masonry bit; follow anchor requirements |
| Hollow brick or delicate masonry | Tool and mode specified for the fixing | Rotary-only drilling may be required to avoid damage |
| Repeated or demanding concrete holes | SDS rotary hammer within its capacity | Matching SDS bit and appropriate dust controls |
| Drilling ceramic tile | Drill in rotary mode | Bit approved for that tile; no hammer through tile |
| Driving hex-head self-drilling screws | Drill/driver or impact driver as specified | Correct nut setter; follow screw speed and torque limits |
| Removing vehicle wheel nuts | Appropriate impact wrench or hand tool | Correct socket; use a torque wrench for final tightening |
For decking and batten screws
Choose the bit by the screw’s drive recess, not by the description “decking” or “bugle”. A screw with a 5 mm internal hex requires an H5 bit; a Phillips or Torx screw needs its own matching profile and size. Seat the tip fully and keep it aligned.
Useful accessories: ULTRAPRO 75 mm H5 impact torsion hex bits for compatible 5 mm internal-hex bugle or batten screws—not every screw with a bugle head.
For brick, concrete and anchors
“Masonry” covers materials with very different behaviour. Soft or hollow brick can be damaged by aggressive percussion, while dense concrete can overwhelm a small combination drill. Follow the anchor maker’s hole diameter, depth, drilling mode and cleaning instructions. If drilling suddenly stalls, stop and investigate rather than forcing the bit; do not cut structural reinforcement without approval.
For tile and porcelain
Turn hammer action off when drilling through tile. Select a bit approved for the exact material: a bit described for ceramic tile or glass is not automatically suitable for hard porcelain. Use the bit maker’s speed and cooling method. Only reconsider the drilling mode after the tile layer is cleared and the backing material is identified.
Useful accessories: ceramic tile and glass drill bit set for the materials covered by its listing; check suitability before choosing it for your tile.
Where do SDS rotary hammers and impact wrenches fit?
Hammer drill vs SDS rotary hammer
A rotary hammer uses a different hammer mechanism that delivers more substantial blows than a conventional hammer drill. It is the tool category to consider for repeated or demanding concrete drilling. Some models also have a non-rotating chiselling mode; confirm this before buying a chisel accessory.
SDS Plus and SDS Max are different shank systems. Match the accessory to the holder named in the tool’s manual. Do not buy an SDS bit for a normal three-jaw chuck simply because both tools mention masonry, and do not assume an adaptor preserves the tool’s hammering capability or rating.
Compare the manufacturer’s recommended drilling range, impact energy, weight and dust-extraction options. Battery voltage alone does not tell you whether the tool suits your concrete job. See the hammer-mechanism reference.
Useful accessories: SDS Plus masonry drill bits for compatible SDS Plus rotary hammers.
Impact driver vs impact wrench
An impact driver commonly has a 1/4-inch hex holder for bits. An impact wrench commonly has a square drive for sockets and is designed around nut-and-bolt work. The words “1/4 inch” describe different interfaces when one is hex and the other is square.
A hex-to-square socket adaptor changes the connection; it does not turn a compact impact driver into a heavy-duty impact wrench. Use compatible impact-rated sockets and adaptors within their limits. For vehicle wheel nuts, follow the vehicle procedure and finish tightening with a suitable torque wrench to the specified value. Do not use impact duration as a torque measurement.
Which bits fit a drill, impact driver or hammer drill?
| Accessory | Typical compatible tool | What to verify |
|---|---|---|
| Round-shank twist drill bit | Three-jaw drill chuck | Shank capacity, material and drilling speed |
| 1/4-inch hex screwdriver bit | Compatible driver collet, holder or drill chuck | Correct tip profile and impact rating where required |
| Short insert bit | Compatible bit holder | May need a holder; retention differs from a power bit |
| Impact-rated hex drill bit | Compatible impact driver or drill | Explicit impact approval and suitable work material |
| Conventional masonry drill bit | Compatible drill or hammer-drill chuck | Shank fit, material and permitted operating mode |
| SDS Plus masonry bit | SDS Plus rotary hammer | SDS Plus holder, diameter and working length |
| Nut setter | Compatible hex holder or drill chuck | Exact head size, impact rating and fastener instructions |
A hex shank proves shape—not impact suitability. Check the complete accessory’s intended use. Likewise, an impact-rated bit does not make hammer mode appropriate for wood, metal or tile. The shank, cutting tip, material and operating mode all need to match.
Some drill bits are specifically manufactured for use in impact drivers. That means “an impact driver can never drill holes” is too absolute. For routine controlled drilling, however, a drill driver remains the straightforward starting choice. See the impact-rated drilling reference.
Useful accessories: 8 mm and 10 mm impact nut setters for matching hex-head fasteners, subject to the screw maker’s drive requirements.
For a deeper explanation of bit materials, see our drill bit guide.
Should you buy a drill or impact driver first?
For most mixed home jobs, start with a drill driver. It covers holes and screws, and gives you useful control for lighter fastening. If suitable masonry jobs are likely, a hammer drill driver with selectable modes can cover those basics and add percussion when needed.
Add an impact driver when repeated screwdriving, heavier fixings or constant bit changes are slowing you down. If your work is mainly concrete, start the buying decision with the required holes and an appropriate rotary hammer instead of expecting a drill-and-impact-driver kit to cover everything.
Before you choose a cordless kit
- Check the kit contents: a “skin” or bare tool usually excludes batteries and a charger.
- Check actual battery compatibility: the same voltage printed on two tools does not make their batteries interchangeable.
- Compare weight with the battery fitted: this matters for overhead work and repeated use.
- Look for controls you will use: low-speed control, a clutch, suitable modes and a side handle where required.
- Compare rated capacity: chuck size alone is not the maximum hole size the machine can drill in every material.
For the wider platform decision, read our power-tool brand comparison. Choose accessories for the fasteners and materials on your job list rather than buying the largest assortment by default.
Common mistakes that damage bits, screws and workpieces
- Leaving hammer mode on: switch it off for ordinary timber, metal and tile drilling, and for screwdriving.
- Choosing a nearly matching tip: PH2, PZ2, Torx and hex profiles are not interchangeable.
- Skipping the pilot hole: follow the timber and fixing requirements, even when the driver has ample power.
- Overdriving the screw: slow down near the final depth; use a hand tool where that gives better control.
- Forcing a stalled bit: stop and check the material, mode, bit condition and tool capacity.
- Assuming a chuck adaptor solves compatibility: confirm tool and accessory approval for the operating mode.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use an impact driver as a drill?
Yes, for suitable tasks with drill bits explicitly approved for impact-driver use and a compatible shank. A drill driver is generally the more versatile choice for controlled drilling. Do not assume every hex-shank drill bit is impact rated.
Is a hammer drill the same as an impact driver?
No. A hammer drill delivers percussion along the drill bit for suitable masonry work. An impact driver delivers twisting impacts to help turn fasteners. The similar names do not mean the mechanisms are the same.
Can a hammer drill be used as a normal drill?
Usually, if it has a selectable rotary-only mode. Turn hammer action off and fit the appropriate bit. Check the manual; available modes and screwdriving controls vary.
Do I need both a drill and an impact driver?
Not for every household job. A drill driver can cover many basic holes and screws. A separate impact driver becomes useful for frequent fastening and for keeping a driver bit ready while the drill holds a pilot bit.
Which tool is best for concrete?
For repeated or demanding concrete drilling, an appropriately sized SDS rotary hammer is usually the practical choice. A conventional hammer drill can suit smaller occasional holes in suitable material, within its rating.
Can an impact driver remove wheel nuts?
Do not choose a bit-driving impact driver as your wheel-nut tool. Use an appropriate impact wrench or hand tool and the correct socket. Final tightening should follow the vehicle specification using a suitable torque wrench.
Can I use impact bits in a normal drill?
Usually yes, if the shank fits and is securely retained in the chuck or holder. Match the working tip to the fastener. An impact rating does not prevent use for ordinary screwdriving.
Will SDS Plus bits fit my normal hammer drill?
A conventional three-jaw hammer drill and an SDS Plus rotary hammer use different holding systems. Choose the bit specified for your tool; do not assume that the word “hammer” means SDS compatibility.
Why does my drill keep clicking while driving a screw?
The adjustable clutch may be slipping at its selected setting. Check the selected mode, the fixing and the material before changing it. If the sound is abnormal or occurs during drilling, stop and inspect the tool rather than assuming it is the clutch.
What size bit fits a bugle batten screw?
Check the actual drive recess. Some use a 5 mm internal hex and need an H5 bit, but bugle describes the head shape rather than guaranteeing the drive profile or size.
Got the tool? Match it with the right bit.
Explore Torqpoint’s drill bits, impact bits, nut setters and workshop accessories. Check the shank, tip size and intended use before choosing.
Browse Torqpoint tools & accessories →Technical references
These references support the tool and safety explanations. Product specifications and available variants should always be checked on the relevant listing and in the tool manual.
- Ozito: How to choose a drill or driver and impact driver vs drill driver — tool categories and applications.
- Bosch DIY: Hammer drills — percussion drills and rotary-hammer mechanisms.
- Bosch Professional’s PRO Metal HSS-G Impact Twist Drill Bit documentation identifies purpose-made impact-rated hex drill bits. This is an example of an accessory rating, not a rating for every hex-shank bit sold by Torqpoint.
- Safe Work Australia: Be Silica Smart — silica-generating work and exposure controls.
Prepared by Torqpoint Tools. This is a practical selection guide, not a hands-on comparison test of specific machines. Product links lead to Torqpoint; no external purchase links are included.