TORQPOINT TOOLS · HAND TOOL GUIDES
A stubborn clip, a piece of wire, a fitting that will not budge: they can all call for pliers, but usually not the same pair.
This guide explains the main types of pliers, what their jaw shapes are designed to do, and which differences matter when buying tools for an Australian home, shed or workshop. Start with the quick selector, then jump to the tool you need.
Which pliers do you need? The quick answer
Choose combination pliers for general gripping, side cutters for cutting suitable wire, long or needle nose pliers for small parts and tight spaces, and multigrips for larger round objects. End nippers cut from the front of the head, locking pliers hold themselves closed, and circlip pliers fit retaining rings.
For a first toolbox, a practical starting group is combination pliers, side cutters and long nose pliers. Add multigrips when you regularly grip larger fittings.
Types of pliers and their uses at a glance
On a phone, swipe across the table to see all three columns.
| Plier type | Best suited to | Main limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Combination | General gripping, bending and occasional wire cutting | Bulky head for fine or recessed work |
| Side cutters / diagonal cutters | Cutting wire and small materials within their rating | Standard bevelled blades do not guarantee a flush cut |
| End nippers | Front-on cutting and suitable binding-wire work | Not every model is rated for nails or hardened wire |
| Long nose / needle nose | Reaching, positioning and bending small parts | Slender jaws are unsuitable for heavy levering |
| Bent nose / long reach | Working around obstacles or deeper into a recess | Reach does not equal extra jaw strength |
| Electrician’s / linesman’s | Firm wire gripping and cutting; extra functions vary | The name does not prove electrical insulation |
| Multigrip / water pump | Gripping larger round, hexagonal or irregular objects | Serrated jaws can mark finishes |
| Locking | Holding a workpiece without continuous squeezing | Can crush thin material or damage surfaces |
| Circlip / snap ring | Removing and fitting compatible retaining rings | Internal and external actions differ |
| Cable cutters | Cutting suitable copper or aluminium cable | Not automatically suitable for steel cable |
| Wire strippers / crimpers | Removing insulation / forming specified terminations | Must match the conductor and connector |
| Hose grip / hose clamp | Holding a hose / operating its retaining clamp | These are two different tools |
| Oil filter | Gripping a suitable spin-on filter for removal | Can dent the filter; not a universal installation tool |
| Round nose / flat nose | Making wire loops / holding and forming flat material | Choose jaw finish to avoid marking the work |
| Flush cutters | Neat trimming of suitable soft materials | Fine edges are vulnerable to overload |
| Pliers wrench | Gripping suitable flats with smooth, parallel jaws | Different jaw action from toothed multigrips |
Everyday pliers: what each type actually does
1. Combination pliers: the general-purpose starting point
Combination pliers combine a flat gripping area, a curved gripping section and cutting edges near the pivot. They suit holding small components, bending suitable wire and gripping round material during everyday mechanical tasks.
For example, use them to hold a bracket while aligning a hole or grip a small pin for removal. Their broader jaws generally offer better support than a slender nose when the workpiece is easy to reach. Use a correctly fitting spanner or socket on an undamaged nut or bolt.
Explore the range: TATNAD 200 mm combination pliers.
2. Side cutters: dedicated wire cutting
Side cutters, also called diagonal cutters, have a compact head with cutting edges instead of long gripping jaws. They are a sensible choice when the main job is repeatedly cutting suitable wire, thin mesh or plastic within the tool’s specified capacity.
The material matters as much as its thickness. A cutter that handles copper wire may be damaged by the same diameter of hardened steel. Check the stated material and diameter rating; “CR-V” and a hardness number alone do not tell you what it can cut.
Explore the range: 200 mm CR-V diagonal side cutters.
3. End nippers: cutting from the front
End cutting nippers have cutting edges across the end of the head. This lets you approach a wire from the front when there is little room beside it. Suitable models also twist and cut binding wire.
They are useful when the cutting approach suits the job better than a side cutter. Do not assume every rounded nipper head is a nail puller or produces a perfectly flush finish: the edge bevel and the maker’s intended use matter. KNIPEX explains how cutting-edge positions and bevels affect the cut.
Explore the range: 200 mm end cutting nippers.
4. Long nose and needle nose pliers: reach and precision
Long nose pliers have tapered jaws for gripping and positioning small parts where combination pliers will not fit. Common workshop jobs include retrieving a small clip, holding a pin and bending suitable fine wire. Some models include a cutter near the pivot.
Long nose vs needle nose: the names overlap between brands. “Needle nose” often describes especially fine tips, but it is not a universal size classification. Compare the actual tip thickness, jaw length and gripping surface. A very fine tip helps with precision but is a poor choice for forceful twisting or prying.
Explore the range: TATNAD 200 mm long nose pliers.
5. Bent nose and long reach pliers: getting past obstacles
Bent nose pliers put the gripping end at an angle, commonly 45° or 90°. They help you approach behind an obstruction while keeping the handles and your hand out of the way. Straight long reach pliers extend access deeper into a recess.
Choose the shape that lets the jaws sit squarely on the part. In an engine bay, an angled nose may improve access to a small clip; for a straight path into a deep cavity, a long straight nose may be easier. Extra length is for access, not permission to lever harder.
Explore the range: 280 mm 45° long nose pliers or 406 mm straight long nose pliers.
6. Electrician’s and linesman’s pliers: gripping and cutting wire
Electrician’s pliers is a broad description. Linesman’s pliers usually have a robust gripping nose and an integrated cutter; some models add a crimping point, stripping holes or a pulling feature. Check the actual functions instead of assuming every pair has them. Klein’s linesman’s range illustrates these model-specific differences.
Combination vs electrician’s pliers: there is overlap in gripping and cutting, but a general-purpose combination plier is not automatically an electrician’s specialist tool. Most importantly, an electrician-style head or coloured handle does not establish an electrical insulation rating.
7. Multigrip pliers: adjustable grip for bigger workpieces
Multigrip pliers, commonly called water pump pliers, have an adjustable joint and toothed jaws for holding round, hexagonal and irregular workpieces. Groove-joint and tongue-and-groove designs belong to this wider adjustable-plier family.
Adjust the opening to the workpiece before applying force. A comfortable handle spacing and secure jaw contact are more useful than simply choosing the longest tool. Toothed jaws can mark polished fittings; use a suitable smooth-jaw tool or protective solution where the finish matters. KNIPEX’s water pump plier guide describes the adjustable joint and applications.
Explore the range: 250 mm multigrip water pump pliers; for larger workpieces, compare Torqpoint 405 mm water pump pliers.
8. Locking pliers: hold without constant squeezing
Locking pliers use an adjustable locking mechanism to stay clamped after you release your hand. They help hold parts during assembly and can grip an already damaged fastener when ordinary tools no longer engage, provided access and material strength allow.
Curved jaws suit round or irregular work; straight jaws suit flatter contact. Long nose, sheet metal and C-clamp versions change the reach or clamping footprint. Set the pressure conservatively on thin material. For the full comparison, read our guide to locking pliers, vice grips and C-clamps.
Explore the range: 7–10 inch tear-drop jaw locking pliers.
Specialist pliers: buy for the task you actually do
9. Circlip pliers: retaining rings need the right action
Circlip pliers have small tips that engage the holes in compatible retaining rings. Internal circlip pliers compress a ring inside a bore; external circlip pliers expand a ring around a shaft. Straight and angled tips help with different access directions.
Match the tip diameter and working range to the ring, and open or close it only as far as needed. Wear eye protection and control the ring so it cannot spring away. Ordinary needle nose pliers do not provide the same purpose-made engagement. See the manufacturer’s explanation of circlip types and tip shapes.
Explore the range: NKTOP four-piece internal and external circlip pliers set.
10. Cable cutters: for suitable copper and aluminium cable
Cable cutters use shaped cutting blades to cut suitable cable more cleanly than trying to crush through it with general gripping jaws. Select the model by cable material, construction and rated capacity.
Do not confuse electrical cable with steel wire rope. The linked 250 mm cutter is described for soft, non-steel copper and aluminium cable. It is not a general steel-cable cutter, and its listing does not establish an insulated-tool rating.
Explore the range: 250 mm copper and aluminium cable cutters.
11. Wire strippers and crimping pliers: different jobs
Wire strippers remove insulation while preserving the conductor. Manual strippers use matched openings or an adjustment; automatic designs grip and strip within a specified range. Match the tool to conductor size and insulation type.
Crimping pliers compress a terminal, connector or ferrule into its required shape. A ferrule crimper is not automatically suitable for insulated automotive terminals or open-barrel connectors. Choose the correct die, connector family and conductor range. Ordinary pliers cannot reliably substitute for a specified crimp tool. This manufacturer example is specifically designed for wire ferrules.
12. Hose grip and hose clamp pliers: do not mix them up
Hose grip pliers hold the hose; hose clamp pliers operate the clamp. Ring-nose hose grip jaws surround a suitable hose or cylindrical part to help with access and controlled handling. Match the jaw opening and avoid crushing or tearing the hose.
Spring hose clamp pliers grip the tabs of a compatible spring clamp. Other clamp systems need different tools. Work only on a safely cooled and depressurised system. KNIPEX’s spring-clamp tool shows how dedicated clamp jaws differ from hose-gripping jaws.
Explore the range: 280 mm 19 mm ring-nose hose grip pliers.
13. Oil filter pliers: removal of suitable spin-on filters
Oil filter pliers wrap toothed jaws around a compatible spin-on filter body. They can help loosen a filter when there is room to grip it, but they may dent the casing.
Check the diameter range and clearance. They do not replace the correct socket or cap tool for a cartridge-filter housing. Install a replacement filter according to the vehicle and filter instructions rather than tightening it with removal pliers.
Explore the range: 40–115 mm adjustable oil filter locking pliers.
14. Flat nose and round nose pliers: controlled shaping
Flat nose pliers hold and bend flat material; smooth faces help reduce tooth marks on delicate work. Round nose pliers have rounded, tapering jaws for forming wire loops and curves. They suit different results: a defined flat bend versus a rounded loop.
For craft or small-component work, choose the jaw profile, surface finish and wire capacity together. A smooth jaw can still mark a surface if you squeeze too hard. KNIPEX’s round nose example identifies wire-loop forming as a main use.
15. Flush cutters: neat trimming of soft materials
Flush cutters are designed to leave a flatter cut on one side than standard bevelled cutters. Suitable models are useful for trimming component leads or plastic cable ties without leaving as much of a projecting end.
Choose a cutter specifically rated for the material. Fine flush-cutting edges are not a substitute for heavy wire cutters, and plastic-only cutters should not be used on metal.
16. Carpenter’s pincers and concreter’s nippers
Carpenter’s pincers use a rounded head and gripping/cutting edges for tasks such as extracting suitable nails from timber. A protective backing can help reduce marks when rolling the head against a surface.
Concreter’s nippers are intended for repetitive twisting and cutting of suitable tying wire in reinforcement work. They resemble other end-cutting tools, but the handle geometry and intended application matter. Do not assume a wire-tying nipper is designed for pulling heavy nails.
17. Other pliers worth recognising
Slip-joint pliers: a movable pivot provides a small number of opening positions for everyday gripping. They usually offer fewer settings than multigrips.
Pliers wrench: smooth, parallel jaws grip suitable flats and can help where you want to avoid toothed-jaw marks. This is a different mechanism from ordinary water pump pliers. See the pliers-wrench design.
Fencing pliers: a specialist multi-function tool for fence-wire and staple tasks; check its cutting rating against the fence material. Sheet metal pliers or hand seamers: broad jaws help form sheet edges, while sheet metal locking clamps are primarily for holding. Hog ring and split-ring pliers: dedicated jaws close compatible hog rings or open split rings; neither replaces circlip pliers.
Explore the range: 250 mm sheet metal locking clamp for holding sheet material.
How to choose the right pliers before you buy
- Name the main job. Gripping, cutting, holding, shaping and operating a retaining ring require different jaws.
- Check access. Look at the working space for the head, the opening handles and your hand. A longer handle does not fix a head that cannot fit.
- Match the capacity. For gripping, check jaw opening. For cutting, check both the material and its permitted diameter or conductor area. A capacity in mm² is not the same as a diameter in mm.
- Choose a manageable size. Around 160–200 mm is a useful comparison range for many ordinary hand pliers, but the task decides. Compact tools favour control and access; larger models may offer more leverage or capacity.
- Inspect the build and feel. Look for the intended jaw alignment, a smooth joint without excessive sideways play, and a handle opening you can comfortably control. Spring return can help during repetitive work.
- Check the finish and the rating. Serrations improve grip but may mark the work. Comfort handles, chrome plating and CR-V steel are not proof of electrical insulation or a specific cutting capacity.
What do the inch sizes mean?
Pliers are commonly labelled with a nominal overall length. Six, eight, ten and twelve inches convert to about 152, 203, 254 and 305 mm. Retail listings often round these to nearby metric sizes. Use the stated product dimensions and jaw capacity when comparing models; overall length is not jaw opening.
A practical plier group for your toolbox
- Home and general DIY: combination pliers, long nose pliers and side cutters; add multigrips for larger gripping jobs.
- Automotive maintenance: start with those basics, then add circlip, hose or oil filter tools for the components you actually service.
- Electrical trade: select the required pliers, cutters, strippers and crimpers to the task, conductor system and applicable safety requirements.
- Fabrication or fencing: choose rated cutters and the locking, forming or fencing tools that suit the material.
A smaller group of tools that fit your jobs is usually more useful than a large set full of near-duplicates.
Common plier mistakes to avoid
- Using teeth on a good fastener: try the correctly fitting spanner or socket first.
- Cutting unknown hard wire: confirm the rating before squeezing harder.
- Using slender noses as pry bars: this can bend or break the tips.
- Extending handles with pipe or striking them: use a tool designed for the required load.
- Confusing grip with insulation: rubber or plastic handles alone do not establish electrical protection.
- Leaving sharp offcuts loose: wear eye protection and control offcuts and spring-loaded rings.
How to keep pliers working smoothly
Wipe off dirt and moisture after use, clean debris from the jaws, and lubricate the pivot as the manufacturer recommends. Wipe away excess oil so the handles remain secure. Store the tool dry and inspect chipped cutters, damaged insulation and loose joints before reuse.
For storage and corrosion prevention, read our hand-tool care guide. Follow the product label when choosing cleaners and protective oils.
Frequently asked questions about pliers
Which pliers should I buy first?
For general household and workshop jobs, combination pliers are a useful first pair. Add side cutters if cutting is common, and long nose pliers if you often work with small or recessed parts.
Are long nose and needle nose pliers the same?
The terms often overlap. Needle nose usually suggests finer, more pointed jaws, but naming varies by manufacturer. Compare the actual tip dimensions and jaw profile.
What is the difference between side cutters and end nippers?
Side cutters have cutting edges in a compact diagonal-cutting head. End nippers place the cutting edges across the end of the head, allowing a front-on approach. Choose by access and rated cutting capacity.
Are multigrips and water pump pliers the same?
In Australian tool listings, multigrips and water pump pliers generally describe the same adjustable gripping family. Joint designs, jaw shapes and adjustment methods vary.
Can combination pliers cut nails?
Only if that exact tool is rated for the nail material and diameter. An integrated cutter or CR-V marking does not establish suitability for hardened nails.
Are all electrician’s pliers insulated?
No. The description may refer to the tool’s shape or intended tasks. Verify the actual insulation markings and rating; handle colour alone is not evidence.
Which pliers remove circlips?
Use circlip pliers with tips and capacity matched to the ring. Internal pliers compress rings inside a bore; external pliers expand rings around a shaft.
Which pliers cut cable ties neatly?
A flush cutter rated for the cable-tie material is a good choice. Standard side cutters can leave a projecting cut end, depending on their edge shape.
Are bigger pliers always better?
No. A larger tool may offer more capacity or leverage, but it can be harder to position and control. Match the head, handle opening and capacity to the job.
Product links are examples from our range, not a claim that every specialist type described is stocked. Check the linked listing for current specifications, available sizes and availability. Manufacturer references explain tool principles; their individual ratings do not apply to other brands or models.